Mars Petcare US, the maker of pet food brands Pedigree, Ol' Roy and others, has announced a voluntary recall of products manufactured at its Everson, Pennsylvania facility because of potential Salmonella contamination.

While there have been no reports of pets becoming ill from the food, Mars Petcare US has voluntarily recalled the food produced between Feb. 18 and July 29 of 2008 at its Everson facility.

Owners can check the UPC code on pet food packages to see if the food is affected by the recall. For all Mars Petcare US products except Pedigree foods, recalled products will have "17" as the first two digits on the second line on the UPC information. Example:

Best By Feb 18 09
17 1445 1

Pedigree products have a slightly different UPC code and date format than other products. Consumers who purchased Pedigree should look for "PAE" on the bottom line - the sixth, seventh and eighth digits. Example:

PEDIGREE ® Small Crunchy Bites
Best Before 02/2009
808G1PAE01 12:00

A complete list of recalled products and corresponding UPC information can be found at the Food and Drug Administration's website and at the Mars Petcare US website.

Symptoms of Salmonella in pets may include lethargy, diarrhea, fever and vomiting. Some pets may have only decreased appetite, fever and abdominal pain. In some cases, animals can carry the Salmonella infection with no visible symptoms and potentially infect other animals or humans. If your pet has consumed the recalled product or has these symptoms, please contact your veterinarian immediately.

To prevent the spread of Salmonella, the FDA recommends pet owners follow the safe pet food handling guidelines outlined here. If you have questions about the recall, call Mars Petcare US at 1-877-568-4463 or visit www.petcare.mars.com.

For those of us who frequent parks, we are not unfamiliar with dogfights. The aggression that we witness can occur between two dogs that have never seen each other or between two dogs that have had prior contact.

The reasons why dogs become aggressive at parks are due to Dominance and Prey Aggression. Both types of aggressive behavior can easily get out of control. Correcting the aggressive dog (at the appropriate time) can prevent a disaster from occurring.

Dominance aggression is very common and is usually seen in non-neutered male dogs or dogs approaching puberty. Since dogs are pack animals and packs need leaders, it is not uncommon for a dog to assert himself. A hierarchy of individuals is formed as pack members challenge each other for positions of authority. Though this kind of aggression does occur among females, it is most prevalent among unaltered mature males or those approaching maturity.

One of the ways that a dog asserts its dominance is to assume a physically superior position over a subordinate. Mounting is the most obvious dominant position. Many owners mistake mounting for sexual behavior. Unless the animal being mounted is a female in heat, the mounting is probably a display of dominance. Some owners find this behavior humorous. By tolerating it, the behavior is encouraged. The dog views this as confirmation of its dominant status.

Dogs do commonly warn each other off with snaps or growls. These gestures are not intended as combat, especially when females react toward males. Although most of the time dogs usually work out hierarchy without resorting to actual physical combat, owners do need to recognize situations that can lead to disaster. Certain challenging postures (such as standing very erect, holding the head over another's back, direct staring eye contact, and mounting) need to be corrected immediately by the owner.

If these postures continue to persist, owners should keep an eye out to make sure that a fight is not ready to erupt. Make clear to your dog that this behavior is not desired. Remember that gentle crooning does not dissuade undesirable behavior, but rather encourages it. Keep in mind that once dogs learn to fight they may form a pattern that is sometimes difficult to unlearn.

Prey aggression takes a form that is often misunderstood by pet owners and even professional obedience trainers. Prey aggression is not actually dog fighting, but is rather the psychological drive inherent in some dogs to chase, capture, and seize prey. It generally occurs between medium and larger size dogs that show an exceptional fascination with smaller, weaker dogs.

The scenario often starts with the larger dog playing roughly with or chasing the smaller dog. If the smaller dog begins to exhibit fear, this may stimulate the prey drive in the larger dog, causing him to play even more roughly. At this point the larger dog should be controlled, otherwise the situation can get out of hand. The smaller dog or puppy may scream and it is not rare for a larger dog to become so stimulated that it will grasp the smaller dog in a "killing" prey grip.

The specific actions described here in both dominance and prey aggression can vary, though most aggressive situations that occur in a place like a dog park generally fall into one of the two categories.

If your dog does get into a fight, try to remain calm and use whatever measured force is necessary to break it up. Be careful: breaking up dogfights can be dangerous. Consider your own safety first. In most cases, injuries sustained by intervening owners are far worse than the dogs suffer. Avoid reacting hysterically and screaming at the dogs and the other people. This just serves to add fuel to the fire. Do not insert a hand or foot between the two rival dogs because their natural reaction may be to redirect the attack to you.

Most dogfights occur between dogs that are owned by nice people who don't intend for their dogs to get into a fight. But you should know that ultimately you are responsible for your dog's actions.

Dogs may be our best friends, but their thought process differs from ours. Understand your dog as a dog. It doesn't mean you have to love him any less.

Cats can be very communicative. Unfortunately for us, they generally do not communicate verbally, and certainly not in a language that we understand! So when a cat stops using the litter box, that is his way of letting us know that something is wrong. In order to determine if it’s a medical problem or psychological problem, there are a few things you need to know.

When your cat stops using the litter box, have your veterinarian examine your cat to rule out any medical problems such as a urinary tract problem. If you notice your cat straining to urinate or defecate, he or she should be taken to the veterinarian immediately, as it could indicate a serious health issue. Once your cat’s health has been cleared, it’s time to look to other causes of litter box avoidance.

It is important to make sure your cat’s litter box is in a location that allows for some privacy. Cats, like dogs, use association as a way to dictate behavior. If your cat has a bad experience while using the litter box, it can lead to unwanted behavior and inappropriate eliminating. For example, if your cat has been frightened by the noise of a barking dog or a large household appliance while in the litter box, he may find other places that are quieter or more private to relieve himself. Trapping your cat in the litter box in order to administer medication could also result in the same unwanted behavior. To guard against this, try to find a relatively private location for your cat’s litter box and allow your cat the same privacy you would like when using the bathroom.

Another reason for your cat avoiding the litter box may be the due to the number of cats in the household. Adult cats generally like to define their territory. Depending on the number of cats and the amount of space they have, territories can often overlap. This can cause territorial anxiety which may lead your cat to spray urine in order to mark his or her territory. Keep in mind, however, that the litter box can become part of a cat’s territory, making it extremely important to have enough litter boxes for all the cats in the home. Cats in multiple cat households generally use more than one box, so having multiple boxes increases the likelihood that your cat is going to find a satisfactory one. A good general rule is to have one more litter box than the number of cats. For example, if you have three cats, you should have four litter boxes, if you have 5 cats, you should have six litter boxes, etc. If for space reasons you need to limit the number of boxes, have as many as you can and be sure to clean regularly, if not daily.

If you only have one cat and the litter box is in a quiet, private location, the solution could be as simple as changing the type of litter. Believe it or not, cats can be quite choosy about the litter they like. If you find a litter your kitty likes, DO NOT change it unless directed by your veterinarian for medical purposes. The litter box should be scooped daily and the entire box of litter should be changed once a week. When you change the litter, you should also wash the box with a mild soap and water and allow it to air dry. If a strong disinfectant like bleach is used, the lasting odor could deter your cat from using that box. If your cat is not using the litter box and the box has a cover, removing the cover can sometimes cure the problem. Many cats prefer the open air and find an enclosed box too confining, especially larger cats.

Hopefully these useful tips can help you find a solution to your cat’s litter box avoidance problem. If you find that your cat is still not using the litter box after repeated attempts to resolve the problem, it might be reasonable to consult an animal behaviorist. Before doing this, however, it is best to contact your veterinarian for further assistance.

To properly evaluate and clean your pet's teeth, general anesthesia or deep sedation is necessary. If teeth cleaning is done without anesthesia or deep sedation, it is usually done outside a veterinary hospital by non-professional individuals. Only veterinarians are authorized to administer anesthesia or sedation to pets and veterinarians are the only professionals who can properly clean your pets' teeth.

There are several reasons why anesthesia or deep sedation is necessary for oral examination and dental cleaning:

• Dental tartar is firmly attached to the surface of teeth and needs to be removed.
• Scaling by ultrasonic scalers and sharp hand instruments are necessary in order to remove the dental tartar.
• Any sudden movement can cause injury to the animal or individual performing the dental procedure.
• Dental scaling is performed above and below the gum line. Scaling the teeth above the gum line usually does not cause discomfort; however, scaling below the gum line (or under the gums) can cause discomfort. The area below the gum line, or subgingival space, is the most important area to clean as periodontal disease begins here.
• Humans cooperate during dental procedures; however, without anesthesia or deep sedation, dogs and cats do not.
• Scaling above the gum line offers nothing but cosmetic results. Scaling must be done below the gum line.

A complete examination of all surfaces of the teeth is impossible to perform while the veterinary patient is awake. The external surface of some teeth may be superficially examined; however, the inside surfaces of the teeth (within the oral cavity) cannot be evaluated unless anesthesia or deep sedation is administered.

Laboratory blood tests along with an ECG and radiographs are often necessary before a dental patient can be anesthetized. The older the patient, the more tests that may be needed prior to administering general anesthesia. Animals with congenital disease and pets suffering from chronic conditions are a greater anesthetic risk than completely healthy pets. If your pet is considered an anesthetic risk, your veterinarian will recommend the tests that are necessary prior to administering anesthesia.

The anesthesia given to one pet may be completely different than the anesthesia given to another pet. Your veterinarian can choose from a variety of pre-anesthetic medications and anesthesia induction agents. After the pre-anesthesia medication and induction agents are administered, general anesthesia is usually maintained with a gas agent (isoflurane or sevoflurane) mixed with oxygen.

Monitoring the anesthetized patient is a fundamental procedure in veterinary medicine. Most veterinary hospitals evaluate the condition of their anesthetized patients by using one or more of the following monitors:

• Electronic Respiratory Monitor
• Pulse Oximeter
• Blood-Pressure Monitor
• Electrocardiograph (ECG)
• Esophageal Stethoscope
• Carbon Dioxide Monitor

Along with patient monitoring, it is important to keep the pet warm and comfortable during the dental procedure. Since many procedures may last longer than an hour, the pet's core body temperature may become lowered. By using blankets, hot water bottles and heated tables, the veterinary patient's body temperature can be maintained at its normal value.

During the last few years, veterinary dentistry has made tremendous strides. By taking advantage of the dental procedures offered at our hospital, your pet can enjoy the benefits of having excellent teeth well into his or her senior years.

Some Things That Your Veterinarian Does During A Typical Pet Examination

Veterinarian Examining a Dog

Looks at your pet or weighs him or her to check for significant weight change.

Examine eyes for cataracts, glaucoma or inflammation.

Examine ears for infection, dirt or discharge.

Check nose for signs of upper respiratory disease.

Evaluate breath and teeth, and check color and condition of gums.

Feel thyroid and lymph nodes for signs of infections or tumors.

Feel abdomen for abnormal tenderness, lumps or masses.

Assess the condition of legs, joints and spine.

Make sure coat is healthy and well groomed, not dry, dull or brittle. Determine if nails need trimming.

Check skin for fleas and ticks, infection, lumps, bumps or other problems.

Listen for heart murmurs, irregular heartbeat and abnormal lung sounds.

Check a stool sample (if necessary) for internal parasites.

Health Benefits Associated With Spays & Neuters

Spaying or neutering pets is a common procedure, and most pet owners have probably had some experience with having the procedure done on animals they have owned.

Aside from the inconvenience of heat cycles and/or roaming tom cats, there are medical benefits associated to having your pet spayed or neutered. The direct health benefits of spaying or neutering are significant for the pet. If female pets are spayed before their first heat cycle, the risk of developing mammary tumors (breast cancer) is significantly reduced.

Spaying female pets eliminates the risk of pyometra, an infection of the uterus. This disease can be very serious, even fatal, in female pets. Male pets can also benefit. Neutering eliminates the risk of testicular cancer and reduces the risk of prostate disease.

Spay and Neuter Stamps Issued by the U.S. Postal Service

Spaying or neutering can indirectly help prolong a pet's life as well. When pets are spayed or neutered, their tendencies to roam or fight are greatly reduced. This prevents the pets from getting lost, stolen, hit by cars, or contracting a contagious disease.

Cats that fight are at risk of contracting a serious disease called feline leukemia. This disease, which affects the immune system of the cat, can be passed from feline to feline through saliva or blood. Cats also run the risk of contracting feline immune deficiency virus when they fight. This disease is very similar to human HIV. It can lie dormant in the cat for quite a while, and when activated, can cause the cat's immune system to function improperly.

Spaying or neutering dogs can help keep them under control. Dogs that have not been spayed or neutered are more likely to wander away from home. While running loose, they have a chance of being hit by a car, getting lost, stolen, or taken to the animal shelter.

Even though spays and neuters are considered routine surgery, there is nothing routine about any abdominal surgery performed under general anesthesia. Most veterinarians consider spays and neuters to be major surgery, especially when spaying older animals that have had several heat cycles or have had litters.

Veterinarians and humane societies advise pet owners to have their pets spayed or neutered. The medical advantages have been proven. Complications resulting from these procedures are rare and pets recover from surgery very quickly. Often the day after surgery, animals are bright and alert, sometimes seeming as if nothing had ever happened.

The cost of the procedure varies depending upon the species, sex, size, and age of the pet.

Children and cats can share a relationship that is mutually beneficial provided each is old enough to respect the other. The good-natured dog may put up with a child's playful tousling, but the dignified cat may be less tolerant. Teaching your child the appropriate way to handle and properly treat a cat helps him/her to respect animals at a young age.

From the start, the child should be taught how to properly hold the cat, providing support under the chest and under the back legs. Touching the sensitive stomach area will bring a natural reaction of "grab and bite" and the child should be made aware this. A cat does not feel comfortable with his / her stomach exposed. The child should also be taught some basic feline body language so that he/she knows to back off when the cat's ears flatten and the tail twitches. This important lesson helps to prevent some tears later on.

If you have children under 6 or 7 years of age, it is best not to adopt a kitten under four months of age. With a well-meaning hug, an overly affectionate toddler can injure a small kitten. A more mature kitten or cat can better withstand a young child's noise and quick movements, but even an adult cat may swat at a tail-pulling child. The key to harmonious interactions between young children and cats of any age is adult supervision.

Parents are always looking for ways to teach children responsibility and often try to give children cat care duties. This is usually not a good idea. Children can be forgetful and easily distracted. Eventually, it is the cat who suffers if a child forgets to put out fresh food or water or forgets to clean the litter box. Even if children are mindful of their chores, having to care for the cat can cause resentment due to constant parental reminders. Children can help when it comes to pet chores; however, It is best to make cat care a family responsibility with feedings and exercise a top priority but not the sole responsibility of the child.

While growing up with pets promotes commitment, compassion and healthy habits, it is important to remember that teaching your child to properly handle and care for cats is secondary to the actual health and well-being of the cat. A mutually loving relationship is the best possible outcome for both and can be achieved if the proper measures are taken.